Remarkable things have happened since I started surfing, the interweb arrived, Martin and Big Ian became known for their friendship instead of their hatred, and the Celtic tiger brought wealth to man and heur alike, many of whom have made the trip from Dublin to the real capital of Ireland, Bundoran, to learn how to surf and thus a surf industry was born.
When you remember the difficulty in getting even the most essential of equipment back in the day, such as a Custom made surfboard, wax, or even a decent wetsuit (cue memories of wearing t-shits and shorts under 2 piece front zip wetsuits, from everyone over 30! Aghhhh – we love our new prene), then we must be grateful for where surfing is at in Ireland.
The most notable achievement for Irish surfing is its emergence as a big wave destination , and it has been the desire to ride bigger waves coupled with the purchase of Jet skis from Celtic Tiger wealth that has led to the Tow board, a really short surfboard with wake and kiteboarding influences that also straps to your feet for extra ankle breaking control. This board is possibly the only true new surfboard design that I have seen created in my time of surfing, but it the possession of the elite athlete and not ment for the feet of mere mortals like me.
Two other evolutionary steps have taken place, the first being the regurgation and refinement of old school or classic surf designs that may have been thought not to work anymore! This “Retro” movement seen the big comeback of the fish in many different variations, some so varied that they are labelled a “Fish” when indeed the board is so far from the original concept of the Fish that in fact they should probably be called something else. You can buy single fin fish, twin fin fish, three fin fish, four fin fish and I haven’t seen a five fin fish, but that doesn’t mean someone isn’t riding one somewhere.
The single fin made a comeback, and people discovered the bonzer for the first time, good job the cambell brothers stayed true to the same design concept since its inception. In this funny time period the thruster seemed to have a bad name, everyone was talking about down the line speed and performance without giving the thruster shortboard a look in!
The second evolutionary step or should I say revolutionary step came in the guise of new construction techniques, and the emergence of big corporations taking over surfboard construction from the everyday shaper and moving manufacturing to china or elsewhere in search of cheap labour and higher yields.
Some designs have come and gone such as the blue, hollow, carbon fibre stringered contraptions built by a ski company and whose name escapes me. I remember them being marketed as virtually indestructable, but the first time I set eyes on one it was in two halfs, lying in Rosy’s shaping bay.
The development of stronger Epoxy resins, lighter foams such as XPS and EPS, the emergence of carbon fibre as a material, parabolic stringers and so on…….have all played their part in the emergence of the “sandwitch construction” surfboards, all claiming to be better in some way from what has gone before. It seems like any company can now take three or four new raw materials, pop them in their witches cauldron with eye of neut and magic out the “next generation” surfboard; lighter, stronger, faster and better for your surfing!
Now the question is, are any of these new permeations of surfboard better than what has gone before?
I would say a resounding NO!!!!
And Why?
Well, just look at the pro tour and the boards they are riding. The shortboard with thruster setup combined with the traditional Poly construction technique is still King.
So, what for the future?
Well, Well, the credit crunch has arrived and maybe this will put a dent in the average surfers desire to have a quiver of boards as big as the pros, maybe the idea of one board for many waves will come back! But I don’t think so.
I also can’t see another big leap in design like the tow board anytime soon, but maybe continued refinement of the already numerous classic designs to ease the hunger of the surfing public’s need for something that little bit different is where it will all be at, things will come and go, like the noseless board, but some things will stick like the new Fish.
Hopefully, the next step in construction will come from more environmentally friendly products such as Bio-Foam, an environmentally friendly surfboard blank, brought to us by the colleraboration of Cornwalls Eden project with Homeblown, to produce this plant based foam.
This is the way forward for surfing and I don’t even mind if a big corporation comes in and ties up the market! Well, that’s a lie, I do really, competition is healthy for the industry, we need surfers and shapers in lots of different countries doing their own thing, shaping boards for the waves they ride, pushing boundaries. Utopia would be having access to foams and resins that were totally environmentally friendly, and match the performance and simplicity of the traditional Poly/ PU construction. Maybe this is possible in my lifetime, maybe not, but if we are to take the speed of progress since Clarke closed as a guage of things to come then I would say this is definitely possible.
Just a thought……
Bertie Ahern